Stresa: A gem on Lake Maggiore, Italy

Stresa is a peaceful little town on the banks of Lake Maggiore, in the Piedmont region of Italy. Between the Borromean Islands and the backdrop of Alpine peaks, Stresa offers a picturesque setting ideal for relaxation. Whether you take a leisurely stroll along the panoramic lakeside promenade, explore the charming cobbled streets, or enjoy some local cuisine – Stresa embodies the essence of the Italian dolce vita.

When travelling from Strasbourg, driving through the Simplon Pass, which connects Switzerland to Italy, is the first noteworthy stop of our journey southward. The road winds its way slowly among the snow-capped peaks on the horizon.

We take a short break in one of the parking lots to admire the stunning landscape, with mountains as far as the eye can see. 

A little over an hour after driving through the Simplon Pass, Lake Maggiore appears, peeking out between the houses. As the road stretches out along the lake, the sun is reflected in its emerald waters.

Before long, we spot the Borromean Islands in the distance, and a few minutes later in Stresa, we finally see them in their full splendor. We can’t wait to explore this place, which Montesquieu aptly described as “the most enchanting in the world”.

The lakeside promenade

One of Stresa’s main attractions is its paved promenade along the lakeside. Very few towns around Lake Maggiore can boast a pedestrian path this long and this close to the water: about 1.5 kilometers, between the pier in Stresa, and Carciano. The view of the Borromean Islands and the Alps is remarkable.

Stresa is also known for its elegant luxury hotels, favored by many celebrities over the years, such as the Grand Hôtel des Îles Borromées, where Ernest Hemingway used to have regular stays. These hotels add a touch of glamour to Stresa, giving it the appearance of a swanky seaside resort town.

The Borromean Islands

In just a few minutes by ferry from the piers in Stresa or Carciano, you can reach the Borromean Islands.

All three islands are open to visitors:

• Isola Bella with its sumptuous Palazzo Borromeo, a 16th-century baroque palace with lavish interiors and lush, terraced gardens. The white peacocks roaming freely around the gardens add a little bit of an exotic twist. The island was designed to evoke the shape of a ship, with the palace at the prow and the gardens at the stern. 

• Isola dei Pescatori (the smallest of the islands), also known as Isola Superiore: a charming little fishing village, very popular during peak season

• A little further away – Isola Madre (the largest of the three) with its 16th-century palace and an exotic English landscape garden

The town center

A walk around the cobbled streets of Stresa lets us get a feel for this little, typically Italian town. We take the time to wander around the narrow streets lined with shops, cafés, and restaurants, admiring the colorful architecture, before taking a break on the main square, Piazza Luigi Cadorna, with its many terraces under the plane trees.

Our favorite spots

Where to eat

Taverna del Pappagallo (Via Principessa Margherita 46): A popular trattoria, even among locals, with a lovely shaded patio surrounded by lush vines. The menu offers a wide array of classic Italian dishes (pizza, pasta, meats, seafood…). The wood-fired pizzas are delicious, with generous toppings, with our favorites being the Tricolore and the Calzone. Reservations are recommended: here.

Where to have coffee or a meal by the lake

L’Idrovolante (Piazzale Lido 6): A café/restaurant directly on the water, next to the pier in Carciano. The staff are very welcoming, and the terrace allows you to enjoy the beautiful view of the lake and the islands.

Where to have gelato

K2 (Via Anna Maria Bolongaro 40): An artisanal gelato parlor a little further away from Piazza Luigi Cadorna. It’s not easy to choose between all the tempting flavors. Stephanie opts for stracciatella and nutella, while Jérôme picks hazelnut and pistachio. The mouthwatering ice-cream is served in the shape of a rose on the cone, and the service is friendly.

Where to shop?

Il Borgo del Sapore (Via Cavour 21): This traditional delicatessen offers a selection of high-quality goods, both from the Piedmont region and the rest of Italy (olive oil, balsamic vinegar, pasta, grappa, cookies, chocolate, jams…). Monica will tell you everything you need to know about the products she has in store (in Italian, French, German, or English)..

Erboristeria La Regina Dei Prati (Piazza Luigi Cadorna 30): A tiny herbalist’s shop, run by a lovely couple, where you can find local, handmade soaps, body care, and natural perfumes.

Where to stay

Hotel Royal (Viale Lido 1): A typically Italian hotel, run by the Rosa family. The surroundings are verdant and particularly lovely, and the rooms, some of which have a gorgeous view of the lake, are very comfortable. The garden and the outside pool are the perfect places to relax. The hotel is located near the ferry piers to the Borromean Islands (Carciano).

Other sights and activities

• Villa Pallavicino: A 19th-century neo-classical villa with a small zoo and a garden with a wide variety of plants

• A boat excursion on Lake Maggiore to explore other lakeside towns, such as Baveno, or Intra

• Hiking: The hiking trails around Stresa offer incredible panoramic vistas of the lake and the Alps (Mount Mottarone)

• A day trip to Milan: The capital of Lombardy can be reached by train from Stresa (in about 1 hour and 30 minutes, with twenty-odd departures per day)

Stresa embodies the timeless elegance and authentic charm of Northern Italy. With its peaceful atmosphere on the banks of Lake Maggiore, its spectacular views of the Borromean Islands and the picturesque little streets of its old town, it is the ideal destination for a romantic getaway or a family weekend trip.

Before leaving town, we enjoy one last cappuccino at l’Idrovolante, to commit this view of the lake to our memories, one last time. As we exit the café, the manager calls out to us, “see you next year!”, certain he’ll see us again soon. He most certainly will.

We drive slowly back towards the Simplon Pass, extending our lakeside getaway for as long as possible. At that moment, we realize that Stresa truly is a hidden gem.