Japan: our travel diary

Exploring Japan was one of the most memorable travel experiences of our lives. We were inspired, bewildered, enchanted, and fascinated, all at once. Our first trip captivated us so much that we chose the same destination for our honeymoon the very next year. Several years later, we still love taking a walk down memory lane, and we long to visit again. 

Our travel impressions

Despite the language barrier and the fact that Japanese people have a reputation of being shy and reserved, we always felt utterly safe. The Japanese people we met on our way were curious, friendly, and helpful. We never felt any hostility directed at us.

The Japanese archipelago is much more than just Tokyo, of course. The island nation is so vast, rich, and diverse that a lifetime would not be enough to explore everything.

Once you leave the city, the light changes as well. It varies throughout the day and with the seasons — a warmer, brighter light at the seaside, soft and hazy in the mountain, and with shafts and shards of sunlight piercing through the treetops in the forest. Walking through the forest and the countryside sometimes reminded us of Hayao Miyazaki and Studio Ghibli’s cinematic universe.

Another total change of scene for us was Japanese gastronomy. Most of the sushi, sashimi, gyoza, ramen, soba noodles, okonomiyaki, onigiri, and yakitori we ate in Japan had nothing to do with what’s on offer in Japanese restaurants in Europe. Japanese cuisine is far more subtle, diverse, and flavorsome. We actually found ourselves having dishes we wouldn’t try back home. Japan whetted our appetite and piqued our culinary curiosity.

This is another one of Japan’s strengths — you are always encouraged to view something from a fresh perspective, never leaving you with a bad first impression..

Japanese culture is often said to form a bridge between age-old traditions and hectic modernity. While traveling around the country, however, we were struck by another kind of duality — there is a striking contrast in suddenly going from the lively center of a metropolis to the serenity of a zen garden or an empty side street. The opportunity to slip away from the hubbub of urban life in an instant is not unique to Japan, but the distinction is particularly strong.

Every stop during our trips felt like its own little getaway. We were often torn between the wish to stay in the same place for longer, and the urge to discover what the rest of our itinerary had in store.

Like every other couple, we have different tastes and interests, but we’ve always agreed on everything about Japan. One thing is certain — we will be back one day to fill more pages of our travel diary!

Our favorite discoveries

• On Mount Koya (Koya-san): 

– Oku-no-In, this vast cemetery with over 200 000 graves, located in an ancient cedar forest, has a unique atmosphere that moved us deeply and left a lasting impression. Read more about Oku-no-In here

– Torodo temple, the hall of 10 000 lanterns

• Hiroshima bay: 

– The giant “floating” torii off the coast of Miyajima Island (at high tide) on the Seto Inland Sea, one of Japan’s most iconic views. 

– the Shinto shrine of Itsukushima, one of the country’s largest shrines.

 

This incredible complex is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

• In Kyoto: 

– the streets of Gion. Located in the heart of the old town, the houses of the Gion district have not changed for centuries.

While Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka street as well as the area around the Yasaka pagoda are pretty crowded, the ones around Gion Shirakawa canal have a more authentic feel. 

In a quiet side street, we happened upon an authentic Geisha in traditional garb. As our eyes met, she gave us a grateful nod. She must have been relieved that we didn’t immediately pull out our cameras to capture the moment.

– Fushimi-Inari Taisha: this Shinto shrine is over 1300 years old and is dedicated to Inari, the Shinto deity of rice (among other things). A succession of around 10 000 vermillion torii gates lead up to the summit of Mount Inari.

Despite the crowds, this place is an absolute must-see in Kyoto.

• In Nara: 

– the Tôdai-ji temple complex is the world’s largest wooden building and houses an 18-meter-tall Buddha statue dating back to the 8th century 

– the Shinto sancturary Kasuga Taisha, where the path leading up to it is lined with 2000 stone lanterns that are over 300 years old.

 The city of Nara is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

• Kamakura’s 13-meter-tall bronze Buddha is one of the jewels of the capital of the former shogunate. The building around the stature was destroyed by storms on several occasions before it was swept away by a tsunami at the end of the 15th century. The Buddha has remained in the open air ever since.

• Naoshima: on this island dedicated to modern art, the artworks and buildings exist in harmony with nature. Artist Yayoi Kusama’s polkadot sculptures seem to blend into the landscape. 

• In Osaka: 

– Hozen-ji temple at night: a little oasis of calm only a stone’s throw from busy Dotonbori. The statue of Fudo-Myo is entirely covered in moss.

– Osaka castle, which dates back to the late 16th century, and the surrounding park, a veritable green lung for the city.

• In Tokyo: 

– the neighborhood around Shimbashi station, where the streets are still alive at night, with bright neon lights and the stalls of second-hand booksellers with skyscrapers all around them.

– Asakusa: the contrast between the modern buildings and Senso-Ji temple, the oldest Buddhist temple in Tokyo.

Off the beaten path

• In Kanazawa: Kenroku-en Garden, known as one of Japan’s 3 most beautiful gardens.

• In Kurashiki: the Bikan quarter, with its romantic canals lined with weeping willows, offers the perfect, soothing atmosphere for a stroll along the water.

• In Kinosaki Onsen, the ryokan Nishimuraya Honkan. We spent a night in this traditional Japanese inn that was built over 150 years ago. This haven of peace and serenity has a beautiful Zen garden, and another one for walking. The Sukiya-style tatami rooms include shôji (white paper sliding doors) and views of the garden’s wooded terraces — allowing you to take an authentic and refined dive into pure Japanese tradition. We had a dip in our private onsen, slept on futons and enjoyed a kaiseki dinner (a succession of small courses), with sea urchin (uni), abalone, snow crab, Tajima beef, and other dishes we never would have tasted in Europe. 

• In Kyoto:

– the rock garden at Komyo-in temple: the serenity that emanates from the layout of the rocks, the ripples drawn into the gravel, and the surrounding vegetation create an ideal environment for contemplation and meditation.

After leaving the temple, we stopped at a tiny hole-in-the-wall restaurant run by a very old and friendly lady who was full of kindness, vitality, and respect. Although she did not speak a word of English, a few former clients had helped her by making a couple of simple signs with information in English, so that foreigners could understand what she was cooking, too. Despite the language barrier, we received a warm welcome and enjoyed some juicy teriyaki chicken with rice, along with an assortment of homemade tsukemono (pickled vegetables). Delicious!

– the sake district (Fushimi): this traditional sake brewing neighborhood was built along the Horikawa river, whose waters are said to be among the cleanest in Japan.

Balls made from the tips of cedar leaves are hung outside the doors of the distilleries at the start of brewing season. The cedar balls’ changing color helps give an idea of the sake maturing process. 

– Sanjusangendo: this temple houses 1001 statues of Kannon, the goddess of compassion. Since photos and video are not allowed, you are encouraged to center yourself and take a moment to reflect and contemplate.

• In Takamatsu: Ritsurin Garden, this lush, peaceful haven stretches out over about 185 acres and has remained unchanged since the Edo period (17th century).

• In Tokyo: 

– Monzen Nakacho is a neighborhood steeped in tradition in the middle of the city. This district is the birthplace of sumo wrestling and home to Fukagawa Fudo-Do temple, where we were able to attend a traditional Buddhist ceremony.

– Zojoji temple and Shiba park (4th block) offer a wonderful view of Tokyo Tower, which is located just nearby.

Practical tips

• If you’re planning your own trip, we recommend getting a pocket wi-fi router. Google Maps is very handy and efficient for getting around.

• A rule of thumb in Japan is to not disturb those around you. Try to avoid blowing your nose loudly in public. The Japanese are generally not comfortable with public displays of affection, so don’t kiss in public. Holding hands is more accepted. Also avoid raising your voice in public or speaking on the phone on public transportation. Japanese people don’t tend to eat or drink while walking. If you want to eat in the street, we recommend you find a bench or at least stand to the side. Public trash cans can be difficult to find in Japan. Don’t leave your trash behind — take it with you and throw it away later.

• Before you travel, do remember to pack several adapters for all your electrical necessities (phone, portable wi-fi, camera charger …).

• Do bring enough cash as well. It’s less common to pay by credit card here, but the Suica card can be used to pay in convenience stores (konbini) and in many taxis. The card is also available as an app.

• Transportation:

• For your meals:

– Prices of food and drinks in restaurants and cafés are often listed excluding taxes.

Useful phrases in Japanese

Here is a selection of Japanese phrases to help you interact with people (NB! desu and masu tend to sound more like dess and mass):

• Arerugi desu: it’s an allergy
• Arigato gozaïmasu!: thank you very much!
• Daïjobu desu: no thank you (this is a polite way of saying it. Literally: “that’s okay”)
• Eego?: English? (if you want to ask if the person speaks English)
• Amerika: the United States, Osuturaria: Australia, Igirisu: the UK, Kanada: Canada
• Werudan: well done. This is especially useful when ordering yakitori skewers. Japanese people tend to like their chicken medium rare, and this English loan expression will let them know you want yours cooked all the way through.
• Wakarimasen: I don’t understand
• Haï: yes!
• Konichiwa!: hello!
• Konbanwa!: good evening!
• Ohayo gozaïmasu: good morning!
• Sumimasen : excuse me/I’m sorry!
• Oïshii desu: delicious! (when tasting something)
• Onegaïshimasu: please (used when asking for something)
• Toïre wa doko desuka?: where is the bathroom?
• Chotto: depending on the context, this little word can mean a little/slightly/a few (accompanied by the gesture with the thumb and index finger to signify a small amount) or “that will be difficult” (implying no, especially if the person prefaces this with sucking air in through their teeth).