Uzbekistan: travelling along the Great Silk Road 

Visiting Uzbekistan had been a dream of ours for many years: to explore this vast country in the heart of Central Asia, at the crossroads of so many cultures and traditions, and meet the people there. Discover its architectural treasures – a mosaic of blues – and its legendary cities, like Samarkand or Bukhara. Walk in the footsteps of the caravans along the Silk Road. Reality far exceeded our expectations.

Introduction 

Uzbekistan is an underrated gem, nestled in the heart of Central Asia. It’s one of those countries people often struggle to point out on a map. Uzbekistan is bordered by Kazakhstan (to the north), Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan (to the east), Turkmenistan (to the southwest), Afghanistan (to the southeast). It stretches over almost 450 000 km² and has a population of around 36 million. 

The country’s ancient cities, its wide expanses of steppe and desert landscapes, its majestic mountains and lush oases make for a unique geography. 

Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva are names that conjure up legends of old and dreams of exploring. These cities have seen centuries of history unfold and are now UNESCO World Heritages sites.

Thanks to its strategic location, it was unavoidable that the Great Silk Road would pass through Uzbekistan. This mythical trade route takes its name from the silk that was brought from China to the Mediterranean. So much more than a commercial artery, the Silk Road allowed the peoples of Asia to exchange not only goods (silk, spices, precious gems, perfume, porcelain, tea, and paper), but also their cultures and ideas.

The influences of different civilizations (Persian, Arab, Turkish, Mongolian, and Russian, among others) have shaped Uzbek culture, thereby creating a fascinating mosaic. Its age-old traditions and handicrafts carry on the heritage of an extraordinary civilization.

But Uzbekistan is much more than an open-air museum. Uzbek hospitality makes exploring the country all the more memorable and authentic.

Uzbekistan isn’t stuck in its glorious past. Quite the contrary, it is gradually becoming more modern. The capital, Tashkent, epitomizes this aspiration for modernity, by safeguarding its cultural heritage while keeping a progressive outlook.

Travelling through Uzbekistan is an opportunity to discover and contemplate the wonders of another time. A captivating, introspective journey where past and present meet to create an unforgettable experience that we would like to share with you. 

A mosaic of blues

Blue is a color that has a curiously magnetic effect on the both of us and gives us a sense of fulfillment. It’s one of the things we have in common. Uzbekistan is home to a wealth of architectural gems that showcase every shade of blue imaginable. The mesmerizing cerulean and turquoise domes, the thousands of detailed mosaics, the subtle contrast between ochre façades and blue ceramics left a lasting impression on our hearts.

Tashkent

The capital is the ideal starting point to explore Uzbekistan. This cosmopolitan city, with its nearly 3.5 million inhabitants, combines cultural treasures with Soviet heritage, wooded parks, and modern skyscrapers. Even though Tashkent was partly rebuilt in the wake of the 1966 earthquake, some historic neighborhoods remain. 

Our favorite discoveries

Hazrati Imam Complex

The Hazrati Imam Complex consists of the Bakr Kaffal Chachi Mausoleum, dating back to the 16th century, Barak Khan Medersa (16th century), and Tilla Sheikh Mosque (18th century), which houses what is said to be the oldest Quran in the world, from the 7th century. During our visit, the call to prayer suddenly caught our attention, as the voice of the muezzin echoed between the turquoise domes.

Chorsu Bazaar

The oldest indoor market in Tashkent, and one the largest in Central Asia, appears beneath a dome of green and blue tiles. This traditional, bustling, and vibrant bazaar offers a unique sensory experience where scents and colors intermingle.

The countless stalls brimming with fresh fruit and vegetables, heaps of spices, meat, bread, and cakes, form a veritable labyrinth. The market gives you a glimpse, or rather a taste, of everyday life in Uzbekistan.

A man passes by with a full tray of bread balancing on his head. A greengrocer squeezes a juicy pomegranate in a metal juicer. A woman selling noodles flashes a toothy, golden smile while serving a customer. A very tall butcher shows us his best cuts of meat with a sweeping hand motion and proudly declares: “BEEF!” in a booming voice. 

Outside the great dome, two little boys have climbed into a metal cart. A third boy then turns it into a race car by pushing the cart all around the square while making loud vrooming sounds. 

Khiva

Khiva is a former trading post along the Silk Road. Surrounded by defensive walls made from cob bricks (a mix of clay and rice straw), this was the last stop for caravans before heading across the desert towards the Caspian Sea. The old town of Khiva is like an open-air museum and has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1990.

Our favorite discoveries

The walled city

The medieval walled city of Itchan Kala, is surrounded by massive ramparts from the 18th century. These sandy-colored, crenellated battlements can reach heights of up to ten meters. Walking in through the gates of the old town, which is very well maintained, will reveal a maze of stone-paved streets dotted with mosques, medersas, mausoleums and other historical buildings. The absence of cars takes you out of time. The Mysterious City holds many secrets – the most beautiful mosaics are hidden within the courtyards of Itchan Kala.

The fragrance of incense mingles with the smell of shashlik (skewers of marinated meat grilled over a wood fire). Stalls along the streets and in the courtyards are full of beautiful silk and cotton silk fabrics, gloves and hats made from camel wool, fluffy woolen telpek hats, or traditional embroidery. The ochre walls contrast with the blue of the domes and mosaics. At twilight, dusty shades are added to the color palette.

Kalta Minor

The “short minaret” (19th century) is one of Khiva’s principal landmarks. The plan was originally for it to be the tallest minaret in Asia, reaching up to 70 meters, but the construction was halted at only 29 meters. The tower is covered in glazed turquoise and teal bricks and earthenware.

Islam Khodja Minaret

Islam Khodja Minaret (1910) is one of the most recent buildings within the walled city. At 44.5 meters, this minaret is the tallest in all of Khiva. It is recognizable by its slender shape and its many colorful rings. The minaret is particularly beautiful at sunrise.

The dome of Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum

This deep teal dome (19th century) and its tholobate embellished with an arabesque motif, is truly stunning.

The harem of Tash Hauli Palace

Five iwans, each with a single column, line one side of a large courtyard. The adornment in this palace (19th century) is magnificent: majolica, finely carved wooden columns, ceilings painted with geometric patterns…

In these enchanting surroundings, we had the privilege of enjoying traditional Uzbek music performed by a family of musicians and two young dancers.

Bukhara

Bukhara has a rich historical heritage. With around 2000 mosques and 500 medersas, 140 of which are UNESCO World Heritage sites, it is one of the most authentic examples of a medieval city in all of Central Asia.

Our favorite discoveries

Poi Kalan Complex

The Poi Kalan Complex is a true architectural gem, combining Arab, Turkish and Persian influences. This monumental square is composed of a great mosque (16h century), a medersa (16th century), and a tall minaret (11th century). Kalan means great, big, or large in Tadjik and Persian.

The Kalan Mosque is the largest in Asia after Bibi Khanym in Samarkand. A peaceful atmosphere of reverence and contemplation reigns within the great mosque.

It also offers incredible perspectives from several angles. We wandered around the courtyard for a long time, simply enjoying the views.

• To the east, the incredibly refined motifs of the pishtak (gate), the shades of turquoise on the two domes of the medersa, and the splendor of the minaret.

• To the west, a mulberry tree, and the massive cerulean dome of the mosque, sitting on a tholobate trimmed with midnight blue and sand-colored edging and verses from the Quran.

This place left such an impression on us that we returned in the afternoon after visiting it in the morning. 

At 47 meters, the Kalan Minaret was very probably the tallest building in Central Asia at the time it was built. From the ground up, this structure is covered in bricks arranged in geometric patterns.

Captivated by the beauty of the minaret, Genghis Khan decided to spare it when his army destroyed and pillaged the city. We must admit that despite his many faults, this time the man had taste.

The Samanid Mausoleum

The Samanid Mausoleum (9th century) is a masterpiece of Islamic art. It was commissioned by Ismail Samani pour his father Ahmad. Before Genghis Khan’s arrival in Bukhara, the building was buried beneath a mound of sand to save it from destruction. The trick worked, since the Mongolian conqueror mistook the mound for dunes.

This remarkable monument has been meticulously restored and can now be found in the middle of a wooded park. The façade, made from carved terracotta bricks, which were crafted with camel milk, egg yolk, and rosé wine, is reminiscent of the delicate structure of a wicker basket. This kind of architecture is very rare in Central Asia.

Chor Minor

The little medersa Chor Minor (19th century) is easily recognizable by its unique architecture, particularly by its four minarets crowned with cerulean domes. Jérôme thinks this medersa looks a little like an upside-down stool. The four minarets represent Uzbekistan’s main trading posts along the Great Silk Road: Bukhara, Khiva, Tashkent, and Samarkand.

The Ark Fortress

This fortress with rounded walls (5th century), which we affectionately nicknamed the plump fortress, is the oldest structure in Bukhara that still stands today. For many centuries, the Ark served as residence to the Emirs of the city.

The ramparts of the fortress offer an incredible view of the turquoise domes and the minaret of the Poi Kalan Complex and are particularly beautiful in the golden light of the late afternoon.

Bolo-Haouz Mosque

The iwan of the Bolo-Haouz Mosque (18th century) rests upon 20 carved wooden columns. The painted woodwork is among the most beautiful in Central Asia. At dawn, the reflection in the little pool by the mosque adds a touch of serenity and poetry to the atmosphere.

Samarkand

The name “Samarkand” alone is enough to awaken our imagination, much like “Angkor” or “Zanzibar”. Samarkand has been at the crossroads of numerous cultures for 2500 years. Amir Timur (known to many as Tamerlane or Timur the Lame) made the city his capital in the 14th century, with the ambition of making it the most beautiful city in the world. Tamerlane was a14th-century emir and conqueror and is considered a national hero of Uzbekistan. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, this legendary city is known to this day for its exceptional history.

Our favorite discoveries

Registan Square

We beheld Registan Square for the first time at nightfall. Bathed in a soft, pinkish light, it appeared almost as a mirage, straight out of a tale from One Thousand and One Nights. For a moment, we understood how caravan drivers must have felt upon arriving in Samarkand and discovering this square after weeks of riding through the arid desert.

The chirping of the mynah birds nesting in the trees around the terrace overlooking the great square was so deafening that it drowned out any human sounds, until a group of women started playing traditional Tajik-Uzbek music and began to dance.

Registan Square attracts locals and travelers alike, with the former coming from around the world. All around us were Chinese, Spaniards, Americans, Tajiks, Russians, Italians, Turks, and Uzbeks… Stéphanie was probably the only Norwegian to take in the splendid, mesmerizing sight that evening.

A few minutes later, the buildings were lit up. Sober and well-balanced, with undertones of green and bronze, the lighting gives a new dimension to the site and beautifully highlights the architecture of the three medersas.

Located in the heart of the city, Registan Square is an architectural complex that is emblematic to Samarkand and to all of Uzbekistan.

Three of the world’s most ancient medersas overlook the square. The buildings, with their carved façades and impressive domes, are a testament to the incredible knowledge of science, religion, and education that pervaded society at the time of their construction. The detailed motifs of the blue mosaics and majolica are stunning.

We took the time to explore the inside of each of the three medersas around the square.

To the west, Ulugh Beg (15th century), named after Timur’s grandson, who was an astronomer, mathematician, and musician, is the oldest of the three medersas. 

Across the square, you’ll find Sher-Dor (17th century), meaning bearing tigers. This building is unique because its pishtak displays living creatures (tigers and does), which in theory is forbidden in Islamic art.

In the center, Tilla-Kari Mosque and medersa (17th century), meaning gold-covered, which is a very suitable name. 

As soon as we entered this mosque, we were completely amazed by the interior architecture, lavishly decorated with rich blues and gold leaf. We were also stunned by the trompe-l’œil ceiling. Even though it’s flat, it gives the illusion of an interior dome thanks to beehive structures topped with a botanical motif in concentric circles. We were captivated by the rich and detailed decor and stood there, in awe, for a long time.

Shah-i-Zinda

The necropolis of Shah-i-Zinda, of the Living King (11th-19th century), is a pilgrimage site full of beauty and spirituality. This remarkable place is made up of a series of mausoleums adorned with turquoise enameled tiles, geometric patterns, and inscriptions, using a combination of Turkish, Arab, and Persian techniques. The necropolis is home to some of the world’s most beautiful ceramic art.

Gur-e-Amir, the mausoleum of the great conqueror Timur

The spectacular mausoleum le Gur-e-Amir (14th-15th century) houses the impressive tombs of Timur, two of his sons and two of his grandsons.

The majestic archways and the ribbed dome, covered in blue glazed bricks and golden rhombuses, are magnificent.

The opulently decorated interior is striking, with jade and onyx, inscriptions in gold and lazurite, gilded stucco and ceramic, and a domed ceiling adorned with golden geometric patterns against a blue background. 

This precursor to Mughal tombs such as the famous Taj Mahal in Agra, India, this mausoleum commands respect through its splendor and historical significance.

Few countries have inspired as much wonder in us as Uzbekistan (except perhaps Japan). It is an open-air fresco in 1001 shades of blue. Its diverse landscapes, the hospitality of its people, its rich cultural heritage with a pinch of modernity, make Uzbekistan a treasure, an incredible destination that is definitely worth exploring.

Practical information

Useful information when traveling to Uzbekistan:

Visa and passport

If you are an EU, UK, Australian or Canadian national, you don’t need a visa if you’re staying in Uzbekistan for less than 30 days. Your passport must be valid for at least 3 months after the date of your return (updated: autumn 2023). For stays longer than 30 days however, a visa is required. Other nationalities must apply for an e-visa through Uzbekistan’s e-visa portal no matter the length of their stay. We recommend that you check these conditions online before your departure, as well as with your local Uzbekistani embassy or consulate. 

Find out which nationalities are visa-free in Uzbekistan: www.advantour.com/uzbekistan/visa.htm

Time zone

The time zone in Uzbekistan is GMT+5, meaning +3 hours from France on daylight saving time and +4 hours on standard time. When it’s noon in Paris, it’s 3pm in summer and 4pm in winter in Tashkent.

Tap water

You should not drink the tap water in Uzbekistan. We would advise you to buy bottled water and avoid ice cubes in your drinks.

Food

Plov is the national dish of Uzbekistan. This Central Asian pilaf is a meal that is mostly served for special occasions and consists of rice with mutton, spices, and vegetables (mainly carrots, chickpeas, and onions), often garnished with garlic, raisins, quail eggs, and quinces. 

Dishes you will encounter in restaurants and cafés during your stay in Uzbekistan generally range from shashlik (grilled meat skewers), samsa (buns stuffed with meat), manty (steamed dumplings), plov, soup, noodles, and dimlama (a kind of stew).

We recommend avoiding raw vegetables and unpeeled fruit.

Electrical plugs

Electrical plugs are very similar to those used in continental Europe: 220 V, 50 Hz.

Cash

You’ll become a millionaire in Uzbekistan much faster than in Europe or North America. At the time of our trip, 1€ was worth about 13,000 Uzbekistani sums. ATMs in major cities make it easy to access local currency. Some shopkeepers do accept euros and dollars, however.

Wi-Fi

Many hotels and cafés offer free Wi-Fi.

Culture and religion

Uzbekistan is a predominantly Muslim country. While mosques and religious sites are open to tourists, it is advisable to dress modestly and cover your shoulders and knees when visiting a Muslim site.

Climate

The climate in Uzbekistan is arid and continental, with temperatures varying greatly with the seasons. The best times to visit are spring (April-June) and autumn (September-October), when the weather is mild. Avoid visiting in the summer, when it can get extremely hot, and in the winter, when there are often sub-zero temperatures and snow.

Souvenirs

Uzbekistan is famous for its craftsmanship: silk or camel wool scarves, ikat silk coats (silk with traditional patterns), ceramics, suzani embroidery (cushion covers, bags, tablecloths…), traditional embroidered hats (skullcaps), knives and scissors, or miniatures painted on silk paper. Don’t forget to haggle when shopping in local bazaars and at stalls in the medersas. Don’t bother buying products made in China.

Languages

The most widely spoken languages in Uzbekistan are Uzbek and Russian. English is not widely spoken, except by people who are regularly in contact with tourists. Knowing a few words and expressions in Uzbek or even Russian makes it easier to communicate with the locals.

Useful phrases

The Uzbek transcriptions are adapted to English speakers (kh is a guttural sound).

• Hello! – Assalam alaykum

• Goodye! – Khaeer

• Thank you! – Rakhmat

• Yes – ha

• No – yoq  

• I don’t speak Uzbek, do you speak English? – Men ozbekcha gapirmayman. Siz Inglizcha gaplashasizmi?

• OK/good/that’s alright – yakhshuh

• What’s your name? – Isming nima?

• My name is… – Mening ismim…