Categories
Day trip

A day trip from Strasbourg: Mittelbergheim

A day trip less than 100 km from Strasbourg, through the vineyards of Mittelbergheim.

After having visited Kaysersberg and Riquewihr, two iconic villages along la Route des Vins d’Alsace (the Alsace Wine Route), we wanted to explore more of the region’s vineyards.

Mittelbergheim is a charming little winegrowing village located on a beautiful hillside, around 30 kilometers from Strasbourg.

The starting point for our hike is a tiny parking lot called parking du Zotzenberg (free of charge) at the top of the village, which leads straight out to the vines above.

After entering the vineyards, we take a left at the fork in the road and follow the paved path running through the landscape. The two towers of the Château d’Andlau appear in the background.

At the end of the path, we turn right and go a little further uphill, then right again. This part of the walk offers an incredible view of Mittelbergheim and its two church towers.

After passing the picnic area and the Rippelsholz boules pitch, we take a right.

Halfway downhill, a small path to the right leads us to a spectacular viewpoint: the paved pathway, running like a ribbon through the vineyards, the Château d’Andlau in the distance, and the plains of Alsace in the background. Like a little piece of Tuscany in Alsace… The calm and peaceful atmosphere lets you daydream while you gaze at the view.

Once we’ve taken it all in, we retrace our steps and walk back down the hill to the parking lot.

This 2 km paved hiking path is easily accessible, no matter your age. The exceptionally beautiful landscape will lead to many stops – perfect for photography lovers.

Discovering this panorama, with its golden vines and fields as far as the eye can see, bathed in the warm light of an autumn afternoon, was one of our favorite moments of this year.

After leaving the parking du Zotzenberg, we take the time to explore Mittelbergheim’s Renaissance-style houses and do a tasting in one of the village wineries.

Categories
Food Restaurant

A Michelin-star restaurant in Alsace

L’Auberge de l’Ill is a two-star Michelin restaurant nestled in the heart of an Alsatian village near Colmar and the Route des Vins, less than an hour’s drive from Strasbourg. Trying to pronounce “Illhaeusern” (Illhoyzern) is a journey in itself.

As soon as we arrive, we are shown to our table in the elegant and subtly decorated pièce alsacienne (Alsatian room), where we eagerly await our four-course symphony. A full wall of marquetry work, depicting a landscape from the Ried area, with bulrushes, reeds, storks, and herons, echoes the scenery of the nearby river meadow.

The waitstaff are attentive and discreet, with everyone collaborating smoothly in a well-choreographed dance.

Everything is elegantly plated and presented. The restaurant’s delicate, generous, and flavorful cuisine is imbued with the culinary tradition carried by the Haeberlin family through 150 years. Our meal is balanced and subtle. We take the time to savor every mouthful, every note of flavor. The score is played to perfection by chef Marc Haeberlin and his team.

We particularly appreciated the many little kindnesses from the team and carefully planned details throughout the meal, the inspiration drawn from local delicacies, and the Haeberlin family history, which is their great pride. As for the food, we loved trying their beurre Bordier, the famous butter from Saint-Malo, as well as the freshly baked bread, the pan-seared seabass in a mussel nage (which made Stéphanie like bouchot mussels!), and the richness of the chocolate dessert with Piedmont hazelnuts and Tahitian vanilla ice cream.

L’Auberge de l’Ill
đź“Ť2 rue de Collonges au Mont d’Or, 68970 Illhaeusern

Categories
Day trip

A day trip from Strasbourg: Kaysersberg & Riquewihr

A day trip less than 100 km from Strasbourg, exploring 2 iconic villages along the Alsace Wine Route (Route des Vins d’Alsace).

As we leave Strasbourg on a hazy autumn morning, the sun is barely peeking through the layer of low-hanging clouds. But in an instant the fog clears, as though someone has drawn back a heavy curtain.

After barely an hour’s drive, the rolling hills and golden vineyards of the Alsace Wine Route stretch out before us, leading us to Kaysersberg.

The P5 parking lot (about 1€ per hour) is located right outside the historical center of town.

Ambling through the streets of this picturesque little village with its colorful half-timbered houses is like walking into a different time. Kaysersberg was named “France’s favorite village of 2017” for a reason!

The local restaurants, confectioneries, cheesemongers, bakeries, tea rooms, delicatessens, artisan shops and workshops (glassware, pottery, textile) and Alsatian wine-tasting cellars all aim to show off the best of the region’s culture and gastronomy.

Don’t miss: the church (12th-15th century) and its wooden altarpiece, the fortified bridge from 1514 and the old houses along the river Weiss, the Badhus (Bath House) from 1600, and the Castle.

From the historic town center, by the Badhus, there is a path and a stairway leading up to the 13th-century castle. Our tip: once you reach the castle, continue up the stairs, then turn right. There, you’ll find an incredible view of the castle, with the vineyards, and the rooftops of Kaysersberg below. Once you’ve taken it all in, you can enjoy a walk through the vines back down to the village or go back the way you came.

After Kaysersberg, we continue our road trip along the Alsace Wine Route, the legendary asphalt strip winding through vineyards and villages, to Riquewihr.

Several parking lots (3-5€ for a few hours) are easy to find as you arrive in town. Just like in Kaysersberg, the historical town center of Riquewihr directly overlooks the vineyards.  Riquewihr is smaller, but just as charming and colorful.

The archway under the town hall marks the entrance to the old town. As we slowly climb the hill up to the fortified city walls, the smell of nougat, local cookies (bredele) and coconut macaroons wafts out of tiny shops. Art lovers can have a look around one of the galleries, and wine enthusiasts can enjoy a tasting in one of the local cellars. On either side of the high street little side streets beckon, waiting to be explored. We’re left with the lovely feeling of walking around a postcard.

We take in the views and atmosphere of the Wine Route one last time before returning to Strasbourg, by driving through other well-known villages and famous vineyards, such as Hunawihr, Ribeauvillé, and Bergheim.

Categories
Food Restaurant

An Alsatian restaurant in Strasbourg: Le Saint-SĂ©pulcre

Alsatian adages written in chalk on the walls here and there brighten up the interior of this traditional Winstub, where a few modern touches have been sparingly added to the decor. We ordered one of the many tempting regional specialties on the menu. While we were waiting for our ham en croûte, we leafed through a few of the books about Alsace that are displayed above the benches. The ham was juicy, while the crust was just as it should be – crisp on the outside and soft on the inside. The regional classic truly lived up to our expectations.

Le Saint-SĂ©pulcre
📍 15 Rue des Orfèvres, Strasbourg